Waves are a defining phenomena at sea. They are a source of endless beauty, fascination, fear, power, danger and seasickness. In this topic we will look at the formation and motion of waves and try to determine order from the chaos. Waves can make the oceanographer's and mariner's life truly miserable. Surfing them is kind of fun though.
- Describing and quantifying the motion of waves (field trip?!)
- How are waves created? Fetch and significant wave height. (observation of harbour in a storm?)
- How deep do waves go?
- What happens when waves get too big or meet the shore.
- Effect of wind and current on waves
- Diffraction and Refraction of waves.
- Swell, confused seas and rogue waves
- Storm Surges
- Tsunamis - how created and how they move across the ocean (Bermuda Weather Service model?)